How to Make a Spiral Tie-Dye Shirt

Create a spiral by twisting a flat shirt into a round bundle and applying color in wedges.

Before you start

Use a prewashed white cotton shirt, rubber bands, a protected work surface and dye suitable for cotton. Follow your dye’s instructions for preparation, fixative, mixing, setting time and temperature. This folding guide does not replace the product instructions. Wear appropriate gloves and eye protection; avoid breathing dye powder and use dedicated dyeing equipment.

Fold and apply the colors

1. Lay your prepared shirt flat and smooth both layers. Choose the point where you want the spiral to begin.
2. Pinch that point and turn it slowly. Guide the surrounding fabric into even pleats rather than allowing it to pile up.
3. Continue until the shirt forms a flat disk. Tuck loose sleeves and edges around the bundle.
4. Place rubber bands across the disk to hold it together and mark wedge-shaped sections. Keep the bundle flat.
5. Apply mixed dye to the wedges using a small amount at a time. Turn the bundle over and repeat the corresponding color arrangement. Check between the pleats if you want less white fabric.

Pattern tips

An uneven disk can create an off-center spiral. Large folds can leave white areas; open them gently while applying dye rather than flooding the surface.

Set, rinse and wash

Keep the tied fabric damp and allow the dye to set for the time and temperature specified on its instructions. Rinse according to those instructions before removing the bands and washing. Wash the finished item separately initially. Dry it and inspect the pattern before deciding what to adjust next time.

Find fiber reactive dyes, blank cotton shirts and more techniques in the Learning Center.

For background on fiber reactive dye preparation, see Jacquard’s manufacturer instructions. Use the instructions supplied with your own dye for quantities and timing.