How to Make Striped Tie-Dye with Accordion Folds

Accordion pleats turn a flat shirt into a narrow stack that can be dyed in alternating sections.

Before you start

Use a prewashed white cotton shirt, rubber bands, a protected work surface and dye suitable for cotton. Follow your dye’s instructions for preparation, fixative, mixing, setting time and temperature. This folding guide does not replace the product instructions. Wear appropriate gloves and eye protection; avoid breathing dye powder and use dedicated dyeing equipment.

Fold and apply the colors

1. Lay your prepared shirt flat and smooth both layers.
2. Fold one edge over, then fold it back in the opposite direction. Continue with even accordion pleats across the shirt.
3. Gather the pleats into a flat, narrow stack. Fold direction determines the orientation of the stripes on the finished shirt.
4. Add rubber bands at intervals along the stack. Keep the pleats aligned while securing them.
5. Apply mixed dye to the sections between bands. Turn the stack over and color the other side, checking exposed fold edges for coverage.

Pattern tips

Try the fold on scrap fabric first if stripe direction matters. Uneven pleats produce uneven stripes, while varying the band spacing changes their width.

Set, rinse and wash

Keep the tied fabric damp and allow the dye to set for the time and temperature specified on its instructions. Rinse according to those instructions before removing the bands and washing. Wash the finished item separately initially. Dry it and inspect the pattern before deciding what to adjust next time.

Find fiber reactive dyes, blank cotton shirts and more techniques in the Learning Center.

For background on fiber reactive dye preparation, see Jacquard’s manufacturer instructions. Use the instructions supplied with your own dye for quantities and timing.